I've been hard on poor Ellwood Thompson's and as my enthusiasm has waned for Fresh Market, I really need to give Wade and his friends the praise they deserve for expanding their meat department. Although there were only two, sad little bone-in chicken thighs alone among all the boneless pieces surrounding them last time I was there, the beef is truly outstanding now. A butcher is on hand to cut your meat to size (necessary, since the pre-cut varieties are woefully thin) and the meat on offer is a brilliant red (is that carbon dioxide misting the meat case every few minutes?) and marbled beautifully with lovely FAT that keeps the cuts moist and juicy during cooking. Tender under the knife, with a beefy, not mushy flavor, salt and pepper are the only enhancements needed. For more reading about the choosing the perfect cut of beef, see the Washington Post (Picking Perfect Steaks, February 15, 2006).

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